Making Soft Pretzels the Old-Fashioned Way

House-made pretzels — mahogany brown on the outside, with plenty of loft and pull — are now points of pride at many New York restaurants.

I wish the reviewer dug a bit deeper into breads. This reads like she was assigned the article, made five phone calls and went out with a photographer. Once over lightly.

Still, she gets the high points after a fashion. A lifetime commitment to Atkins ?

I like breads. I am learning to do them well.